Before You Go... Hiking Through the Hills Looking for Ancient Ruins in Western Turkey?

I can't really call this a "before you go to Turkey" post, because I don't think I can comment on Turkey any more than someone can go hiking in an obscure hiking trail in Montana and then comment on America without seeing anything else. Antalya actually reminded me very much of Montana, if Montana had a lot more trees and, well, any ancient ruins anywhere - tons of mountains, beautiful scenery, wonderful people, and a lot of empty space where you couldn't even hear the cars. Somehow, I doubt this was completely representative of most of the country.

Having said that, there are a few things I noticed, and I like doing these posts because it lets me reflect on how much I liked the places I visited. So, for what it's worth, here's my before-you-go-road-hunting list:

There is a wide variety of food

I can't remember a single restaurant we stopped at that didn't have at least three meats (and we are talking about restaurants that didn't even have a flush toilet), and there was quite a variety of spices. The major food groups were all represented at pretty much every meal, so I think I actually ate balanced meals (that's not normal for me). Even their beverages are nice and varied - coffee (in multiple forms), tea, soda, juice, and this drink called ayran (pronounced EYE-run) which is essentially yogurt mixed with water. It's actually pretty tasty!

Turkish Airlines are a NICE airline!

I didn't know this in advance, and I remember when I was in Europe that I tried to avoid taking Turkish airlines (there was a reason why, but I don't remember it). It turns out that I was missing out big time. Turkish Airlines is cheap and also loaded down with entertainment, good food, and lots of nice additions to help the flight go faster. 

There is a lot of security leaving the country

I'm guessing this is because of recent threats, Erdogan, etc., but I went through three security lines in Istanbul, and that was after going through security in Izmir. So, be sure to plan for that when you're booking flights out of Turkey.

On a side note, did you know the Netbook can survive a transatlantic flight in checked baggage? I definitely need to look into getting that thing a new hard drive that actually runs quickly, because it's indestructible!

People in western Turkey are very nice, and they do not care if you can't understand them

I'm thinking mostly of the fellow outside the mosque, but really everyone we encountered was extremely hospitable and friendly. In my memory, it seems as though most of them were smiling most of the time - and I'm not talking about hosts in restaurants (although they were wonderful too), I'm talking about people you pass on the street.

I think you're safe, even as a woman alone - assuming the politics don't get worse

Again, this is for western Turkey. I can't speak for a lot of the country. (If you wonder why I'm making that distinction, I refer you to this post from last year and a map of Turkey that shows Kurdistan and some of the interesting countries on its other borders.) There was also a story at the beginning of May, which I am not linking to because it's that bad, about an American journalist who moved to Antalya, the same part of Turkey we were in, to be with her boyfriend; he began treating her according to Sharia Law after a short while, which included him hitting her and restricting who she could speak with. So, with all that in mind, remember: we were in tourist areas, and we did not stay anywhere long.

I also have a theory that people will treat you more nicely if your a tourist, no matter what country you are in, because you're a guest in their country. I suspect it's human nature to want to put your best foot forward for a guest, but it might be different if you move somewhere, or stay somewhere long enough to stop being a guest.

Anyway, I did try to make a point of not going off by myself, but of course I wound up by myself on accident a few times. And I was fine, obviously. I didn't even get any annoyed glares, and I don't remember anyone looking at me like I was a target. Now, I'm not going to act like I think you could be a total, complete idiot and come away unscathed (not unless you're extraordinarily lucky, anyway), but like with almost everywhere I've been, a little common sense - or maybe travelers' sense - seemed to be all you really needed to be completely safe. Don't get drunk, don't flash giant bills or expensive jewelry for the world to see, don't store your money in an obvious place, don't drink water from the tap, don't start a confrontation, don't be obnoxious, etc., and I think you'll be fine. Actually, I suspect you'd be better than fine; the people there are very friendly.

This, of course, all relies on the political situation with Erdogan not getting any worse, or with Erdogan's grip not getting any tighter. There are places where I would be afraid of the civilians as a tourist alone (like Rome, for instance), and I wasn't here. But the government is sometimes a different story. I'd be worried about getting pick-pocketed or robbed in Rome, but in Turkey, I'd be worried about getting arrested. Actually, I remember on the bus, the guide leader led us in prayer for an American pastor in Turkey who was arrested and being held on some trumped-up immigration charges. The uncertainty there is real, and from what I've heard it's only getting more serious.

There is a lot of trash everywhere

Yeah, Turkey does not have American or European standards of environmental cleanliness. Izmir was pretty clean, as well as the lake by the Obam Resort (where we stayed for a few days), but anywhere smaller than Izmir (including Mytilene, incidentally) had loads of trash dumped near just about any body of water. I don't know if it all just accumulates by streams or the ocean, or if it gets left there on purpose, but either way, you wouldn't catch me taking off my shoes anywhere near the water in Antalya or Mytilene. 

Honestly, the only time I've seen worse litter was after an environmentalists' demonstration.

Much of western Turkey is delightfully low-priced

I never saw any hotel prices, but I regularly ate out for about $5 every single meal (you can barely get coffee that cheap in Seattle!), and we are talking quality food. Freshly made, lots of spices, pretty much all the major food groups, meat that I would consider exotic (I actually ate goat at one restaurant), and nicely-sized portions. 

Then there was the Turkish bath...

The Turkish bath, or hammam, is something like a spa, and the hotel we stayed in for the last leg of the trip had a very nice hammam and options for getting massages, skin treatments, etc. I had one of their beauty treatments while I was there, and it was less than $15! I can't even get my hair cut for that cheap.

History is everywhere

I've alluded to this in previous posts, but it's worth mentioning again: western Turkey has thousands of years of history and it's sprinkled all over the countryside. I remember seeing pieces of Greek pottery in a field, seeing pieces of Roman roads in walls, finding lots of Byzantine ruins, and Ottoman ruins all over the place. America has nothing comparable to it, and even in Europe, it's not nearly as prominent as it was here. It was amazing.

Well, in summary, I'm glad I went. Granted, I'm pretty much always glad to travel, so something would have to go very, very wrong before I wouldn't be glad I went, but the experience of visiting Turkey was very unforgettable. The rich history alone made it worth the visit, and it's not like the rest of it was cumbersome either. All in all, it was educational and fun, and what more could you ask from a trip overseas?

Before You Go to Lisbon...

I wasn't planning to do this for Lisbon, but what the heck.

1. Take advantage of public transportation

I was trying to cut costs as much as possible, which means I did a lot of walking that first day. I regretted it very quickly, not only because Lisbon's hills are steep and the weather was hot, but because the roads were, a) very twisty and winding, so instead of walking as the crow flies, it was more like walking through a snail shell, and b) cobbled rather than paved, and the cobbles were old and not particularly even. They do offer trams going up the hill to Sao Jorge's Castle, and there are also street elevators. Those are pretty much exactly what they sound like - elevators going between streets - brilliant idea. Then there are the Greyhound bus tours, which are definitely worth the money.

2. Ladies, if you're wearing a sundress, wear leggings and a light jacket

I have two reasons for saying this. The first could actually apply to pretty much everywhere I went, but I didn't really wear too many sundresses until I got to Barcelona and Lisbon, so I didn't really think about it: a lot of these places you go to are practicing religious houses as well as museums and tourist attractions. Some of them require women (and men, incidentally) to have their shoulders covered, but even in the ones that don't, it's always better to show a little extra respect and modesty in places where people go to worship God. I carried my leggings and jacket in my purse. 

Most of the fun stuff in Lisbon is either on a hill or by a really wide river with a seaport. These places are known to be windy - especially on the top of the Belem Tower or the Monument to the Discoveries. (I mean, it's supposed to feel like you're on top of a sailing ship - it's supposed to be windy.) I would definitely not recommend wearing jeans, because you will likely melt if you do, but be aware that there is wind in places where sailing ships left from, and wind makes things a little chillier. You may want to be able to put on a little extra covering.

3. They have fantastic beverages 

Obviously, they have port (a really expensive Portuguese dessert wine that you can get at any street side cafe or restaurant in Lisbon for about 4 euro a glass if you're 18) but everything else they have is tasty, too. Their water is good, their juice is good, but especially - and you're going to think I'm crazy for saying this, but it's true - their coffee is good! Why? Well, because it (as well as most of their juice) comes from Brazil. Remember, the Portuguese settled Brazil, and a lot of Brazilian stuff got back to Portugal, and it's still getting back there. Brazilian coffee is delicious. I shouldn't downplay the stuff that came from Portugal itself, though, because that was also swoon-worthy. Seriously, when you go there, it might be worth ordering a couple of different beverages with your meal, because there's a lot of variety and it's all pretty good!

4. They speak English there

Kind of like Croatia, I didn't come across anyone I couldn't communicate with.

5. People are very nice, and it's very safe

I walked into a cafe right when they were closing, and once I realized they were closing I started to leave, but the servers insisted that it was fine and I should stay and have the glass of wine I went there for. Then I was out really late at night - almost until 11 PM - because everything was so well-lit, and the streets were all trafficked but not crowded or mob-like or anything, and I never had a problem.

6. Food is pretty cheap

It's not cheap at all in Barcelona, but in Lisbon, you could get a sizable meal and a drink for under five euro at a couple of places. Other places were pricey, obviously, but I think in general, Lisbon had the cheapest meals of any place I stayed at. 

Also, like I said earlier, Lisbon is a place of feeling. You can feel the importance of the Explorers, and you can feel the art poured into the place. Definitely, a must-go if you get the chance. 

Before You Go to Barcelona...

I didn't do one of these for Ireland, Portsmouth, or Munich, mostly because I wasn't really surprised by much. I was very surprised by a few things here.

1. Not everyone speaks English

Even more than Italy, people in Barcelona don't speak English, or don't speak it much. Not even in the McDonald's near my hotel. Or at the airport when you need directions to the other terminal when your gate closes in forty minutes. (I made the flight, with time to spare, but I was pretty panicky for a while.)

2. Everything is really far apart

I got a hotel near the Sagrada Familia, but the problem was that there wasn't a short, easy, or quick route from there to places like the beach or some of the ramblas. I got there over the day and a half that I was there, but it was a lot of walking. I probably should have just gotten a train ticket, but walking around was a lot of fun.

Before You Go to Dubrovnik...

Don't worry, the pictures are coming soon, but I wanted to post this before I forgot anything.

1. You can rely on the bus system

The bus system in Croatia is called Libertas, and you could practically set your watch by checking it against when the buses arrived at the bus stop. Buses were prompt, the schedules were accurate, and it was never hard to figure out which bus you needed to be on. I'm fairly sure all the bus lines ran by the Pile Gate at Old Town.

2. Go to the pizzerias

I know when Americans think of pizza, we usually think of Papa Murphey's or Pizza Hut, but Croatian pizzerias are nothing like that. You can get pizza there, but you can also get traditional food and (if you're an adult) good local wine. (Side note: local food/wine is much cheaper than Americanized food or drinks. That also surprised me.) The best thing I can liken them to is how Pizza Hut is now (or are they still?) serving buffalo wings as well as pizza- I guess buffalo wings are pretty traditional American food, right? The wings are probably cheaper at Pizza Hut than they are at Buffalo Wild Wings, though. 

Croatian pizzerias are kind of the same way; they have traditional food, but its much cheaper than the other restaurants, and, frankly, they give you much bigger servings. Which brings me to...

3. Restaurants charge you for EVERYTHING!

I don't just mean they charge you for water and french fries. They charged me for bread. They charged me for ketchup. There was even a place where they charged me to put milk in my coffee. EVERYTHING! 

4.1. Pretty much everyone there speaks English...

They speak it really well, too. In fact, I don't remember a single person I couldn't communicate easily with. Most people I spoke to also spoke Italian, German, and even French. 

4.2. ... but they use words a little strangely

The two that stick out in my memory are yes, please and lady. 

Yes, please is not necessarily a request. I heard it used in places where phrases like, "Are you ready?" "Can I help you?" or even, "Do this now," would be more appropriate. For example, when I was at a restaurant waiting to order, the waiters would come up and say, "Yes, please." Or when I was ready to pay, it was, "Yes, please." Or when I was in line for the Walls, the vendor said, "Yes, please," when I went up to give him the ticket. 

I heard Lady a lot, and apparently, that's what they say when they mean, "Miss." As in, "Miss, are you ready for your bill?" or "Can I help you, Miss?" That one confused me for a while. 

5. Water. Bring it. Always.

Dubrovnik is between some mountains and the Adriatic Sea. It's sunny, windy, and extremely hilly. You will need lots of water, especially if you're walking. The idea of flat ground seems to be pretty foreign to Dubrovnik - even the Old Town was built partly on a hill, so between the hiking, wind, and sun, you will need lots of water. 

6. It's pretty safe

Granted, I was in a very touristy part of the world, but I never once felt unsafe. True, I never went out after ten at night, and I never went to any back alleys or anything, but unlike Rome, where street vendors follow you around and you know there are lots of pickpockets out, Dubrovnik was generally safe, even for a woman traveling alone. Nobody followed me, nobody leered weirdly at me, and nobody encroached on my personal space, even if they were selling something. Nothing was stolen, and I never felt unsafe.

7. Now would be a good time to go

If you wanted to see something Roman, but didn't want to go somewhere where not many people speak English, there are lots of pickpockets, and everything is a sprawling distance apart, Dubrovnik might be an acceptable substitute. All the people trying to sell me tours told me that they were trying to attract more American tourists - let me say that again, they are trying to attract more American tourists  - so all the places, museums, etc. are pretty reasonably priced. Take, for example, a seven-hour boat tour for only $35, traditional lunch and local wine and other drinks included - that is a steal. You can see the pictures from that tour on an earlier post, and tell me if you don't think it was worth the $35. 

The way it is now, the exchange rate favors Americans, and (according to the tour guides) they want more Americans there anyway. The people are nice, it's easy to get around in, and Old Town is spectacular (as you will soon see.) Definitely, if you get a chance, take a trip to the Pearl of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik. 

Before You Go to Italy...

Italy is by far and away one of the best places to visit! But before you go, here's a list of things I experienced that I didn't hear about in any guidebooks:

1. Never order more food than you can eat

I'm not sure you'll be able to help it, because Italian restaurants have big servings, but it's best to eat everything on your plate. One girl in our group ordered a sandwich, which turned out to be too much for her, but when she asked if she could have a box to take it back with her, it offended the restaurant owner. At pizzerias you can take pizza back and it doesn't offend them - at least, we didn't offend anyone when we had leftover pizza - but in some of the nicer restaurants, it's only polite to eat everything.

2. No, everyone does not speak English

I remember hearing in America that, no matter where you go in Europe, everyone speaks English, and that does not apply to Italy. In one restaurant, they gave us English menus but the waitress had to have an Italian menu with her so she could understand what we were ordering. Other places, they had to write down the amount for dinner so we knew how much we had to pay - and this was in the historical, probably-very-touristy part of Orvieto. There were plenty of places where they spoke English, but just as often as not we were in places where no one spoke enough English for us to easily communicate with. After all, English isn't their language - Italian is. 

3. Even if they don't speak English, they will know you're American

You don't even have to open your mouth to be identified as an American in Italy. Enough said.

4. Italy is a beautifully hospitable country

In America, we eat to keep going. We eat in the car, we eat quickly, and we eat anything as long as it's cheap. Not so in Italy - restaurants only open for dinner at around 7:30, and when you make a reservation, you can keep the table you reserve until the restaurant closes. Italians love to savor dinnertime as a social event; in the restaurants, they don't bring you the bill quickly and try to hurry you on your way. They take pride in their hospitality, and they treat their guests very, very well - even if they don't speak English.

We stayed in a hotel that is advertised as a 3-star hotel, and frankly, it would put most American 5-star hotels to shame. With a small staff - I only remember seeing four staff members - they laid out a scrumptious, even lavish breakfast every morning, made reservations for us at restaurants, and generally treated all their guests better than most expensive hotels do in America. Americans tend to award stars based on glass fountains and the size of rooms, but the service in a 3-star Italian hotel far outstripped any service in an American 5-star hotel.

5. Waiting in line in Italy is not the same as waiting in line in America

I found this out for myself several times: cutting in line is more acceptable in Italy than in America. In Florence I was in line for gelato and had to check my phone; when I looked up, a grown woman had just crowded right in front of me. At the Epiphany nativity in Orvieto, everyone was crowding their way through with no regard to who was there first. At the airport, even, when waiting in line to check in, somebody just plopped his stuff down right in front of one of the professors. I think in America, cutting in line is one of the few offenses we take seriously, but it didn't seem that way in Italy.

6. Go to Orvieto

And set aside at least three days to explore it. I've been there twice, and I haven't seen everything the city has to offer. It is the loveliest, most interesting, most under-advertised city you can ever stay in. I'm not sure what else I can say on the matter - Orvieto defies words. For that matter, it defies pictures. Simply put, if you are going to Italy and you can only go to one city, go to Orvieto. For that matter, if you can only go to one foreign city, go to Orvieto. You will not be disappointed. Orvieto is magic.

7. You will not want to leave

Be it Orvieto, Florence, Assisi, or Rome (or Venice, for that matter) you will not want to leave Italy. It is a unique and beautiful country that no one can ever adequately describe. I've heard hundreds of comments on Michelangelo, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the leather market, the Cathedral of St. Francis, and so on, and so forth, but there is something about Italy that no description can ever fully capture.